This week between Christmas and New Year's has been good. Not big, out-of-control winter surf, but more of the high-performance grade. We've had waves everyday, and it just seems like the surfing that's been going on in and around San Clemente, Calif., has really gone to a next level. Kolohe Andino, Luke Davis, and especially their friends Ian Crane and Tanner Rosunko, all of them have been absolutely ripping.
I guess I would assess it like this: after going their separate ways all year they're all finally in the same place at the same time, surfing together again. It's like seeing your high school buddy after you've been away from college, but instead of going out and being able to drink more beer at the bar, these guys are pushing each other in the water. They're all at that age where boys become men, and because of that they're all getting to this crazy next level. I'd say they're surfing's matured, but it's still fun and spontaneous, so I guess it's best summed up by saying they've just gotten gnarly.
Add to that the fact that the conditions have been amazing. Light offshore winds all day and blue skies have made it great for shooting. We did see some dramatic tide swings, but that kept surf interesting. The waves would be breaking up on shore in the morning then in the afternoon after it drained out things would get hollow in the shallow water. Best of all, judging by the activity in the North Pacific, this could just be the start of things to come.