As a surfer there are days that live in our psyche for years memories we use to calm us through rough patches in life (or simply flat spells.)
It's ironic how many of these days don't have names. Certain swells have names. There was the epic "West Coast Summer '09" affair in late July and "Tropical Storm Danny" on the East Side. Sometimes I have to wonder if El Nino isn't just something invented by surf journalists. But for all the attention we bring to these events, (this writer accepting as much blame as any) it's always those in-between days that wind up being the most memorable.
Last weekend, the Mid Atlantic and Northeast had a fun little south swell. It wasn't like the previous week's "Double Barrel Nor'easter," or anything, just your average fall and spring-style occluded front passing through. The swell built in the southeast gales on Friday and Saturday and winds went northwest behind the front on Sunday. Pretty typical.
And many spots got "typically" good, the kind of fun waves we get three to eight times a month outside of the summer. Everything lined up where I live, but for some reason the waves just didn't want to be ridden. There were a few makeable ones in the afternoon with no takers. Empty Sunday afternoons are my favorite thing about NFL season.
Long Island, however was a different story. The morning surf check revealed rideable waves, but nothing special. The surfers on Central Long Island gave it a go and got a few. But the second session was magic.
"It kept getting progressively better. The tide was filling in and it got completely groomed," said Chris Tomlin , of Babylon, NY.
The wind was a hair more north than predicted and then died completely in the afternoon, explaining the pristine conditions in New York. Tomlin is a NYC/Long Island sales rep for Oakley and couldn't say enough about this random day.
"There were peaks you could back door. There were lefts, rights, and punt sections all over the place. I honestly felt like a ten-year-old kid at 6 Flags. We were just like kids in a candy store."
With the onset of the cooler weather, the water temp will drop down into the low 50s soon. This was probably the last session for New Yorkers without the gloves and then the ever-looming hood.
And in typical fashion, Monday was crap. There's a mixed bag of windswell in the forecast all week to keep some rideable surf in the water until our next legit clean swell. Maybe it will be another nameless phenomenon.