Full Bowls of Chile


What's better than scoring wide open pits? Well, snapping your own photo of you in said wide open pit is one way to make it a little more memorable.


Cold and spicy Chile bowls, lined up and looking soooo inviting.

I've spent nearly a month in Chile now, and we've uncovered some unbelievable little nooks and crannys in the south. From being fogged in at Matanza to carving it up at Buchipureo's forgiving long left point, it's been a good ride. I had one day of giant surf, or semi big surf, I guess. Punta De Lobos in Pichilemu got as big as 15-foot one evening, too bad the conditions were so haggard from a strong 30 knot north wind. We went out to Punta De Lobos for a gander, but was super bumpy and challenging. I caught some scary rides and was going so fast over the choppy surf. Mark Visser flew over from Australia to surf with me, hats off to him for the effort. One of these days we will score together. It was another great Chinese fire drill, and more training for the two of us.

At the moment I have that surf-stoked, surfed-out feeling going. It will probably be a least two weeks before I surf any kind of real waves again. Right now we are staying at Mando's apt in Santiago. Before this we were at his cabin for a week. It's awesome hanging out with Mando, he's a super mellow older guy who has two daughters and twin boys. He was recently divorced. His children are a bit older now, allowing Mando more time to surf again. He surfs with a goofy-foot smooth style. He has traveled all over Chile surfing and is probably one of the most knowledgeable surfers in the country, as well as the coolest.


A man and his wilderness

This trip has been great in learning about all the different pointbreaks in the south. It was my first time traveling down here, and I have a better understanding of the waves in Chile now. I'd previously been to Northern Chile three other times, but I'd say I prefer southern Chile, it's much more beautiful and quiet, more old world. The local fishermen still use two huge Ox to pull their authentic Chilean boats up the beach. It's their equivalent two a modern quad motorcycle.

More importantly, you can find a variety of waves south of Santiago. I often surfed with no more then five guys out, but sometimes by myself. The waves I rode were the longest leg burning rides of my life.


Just another day at the office...the view's great, it's the commute that's hell.

As of the last couple days I've had a small change in plans. Upon departing from Chile yesterday, Rusty Long and I were monitoring a serious 19-second interval swell, forecast to hit Puerto Escondio on Fri July 24. After closely reviewing all our reliable weather forecasting sites we both booked tickets to fly down on July 21. It's on. Swell, period, and winds look perfect. For me it's going to be a strike mission. I'll fly down with Rusty on July 21 and fly back Friday afternoon, July 24. Why so short? I have to be in Huntington Beach for the US Open to sign autographs. But it will all be worth it. I forgot to mention as I write this I'm on my final flight segment from Chile via Texas to L.A. Time to store the winter clothes, 4x3 wetsuits, booties, and bust out the board shorts. It's going to feel awesome to warm up in Mexico after a month of chilly weather in Chile.

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